#100 amp 24 volt alternator engine load how to

However, if batteries are operated on a regular basis at these kinds of states of charge, they fail prematurely.Ĭalder found that high output alternators also produce substantial heat that can reduce output. The only way to pump relatively large amounts of energy into a battery bank in a relatively short period of time is to operate the batteries in a well discharged state - say between 50 percent state of charge and 20 percent state of charge. As a conventional battery comes to charge, its charge acceptance rate steadily declines until it is accepting little charging current, regardless of the power that is available.

Both classes of boat tend to have a more-or-less permanent energy deficit. It is also a problem for any powerboat that spends a significant amount of time at anchor. This is a particularly acute problem on cruising sailboats which, much of the time, have little need of an engine for propulsion purposes and therefore have extremely limited engine run hours available to power an alternator for battery charging. Buck Boost or B2B converters at 50+ amps are expensive.For as long as I have been experimenting with boat electrical systems, the limiting factor in DC systems design (and, indirectly, much AC systems design) has been the low charge acceptance rate of traditional lead-acid batteries (whether wet cell, gel cell or AGM). But why is that issue more for LFP than Lead Acids ?Īll the solutions I'm seeing are expensive and/or limiting amps available considerably. Is it current exceeding rated output due to low internal resistance of LFP ? or is it the tendancy of LFP's to absorb the max current for much longer than a lead acid and few alternators are rated for continuous use at max amps ? One thread I've seen comments that lower idling engines reduce internal cooling of Alternator (eg 1/2 revs is about 1/4 cooling). But the 'overheating' issue makes me curious. I'm clear on the not cutting load without something to absorb the voltage spike (eg a lead acid still across it).

I'm trying to distill the 'issue' of alternators to LFP batteries. I need to know how this 1202 behaves as it may not be appropriate with a LiFEPO4 on one string and Lead Acid on the other ?Īs always more knowledge, raises more questions. Ideally of course I'd prefer to just direct the alternator back to the starter lead acids to float them.

#100 amp 24 volt alternator engine load how to

I am trying to understand how to wire in something to the regulator of this alternator (is it internal or external I'm not sure) to the SBMS0 could disconnect the 'field' current to stop it generating. I understand you cannot just have a relay or BatteryProtect disconnect alternator output under load as it can generate significant Voltage spikes and fry the alternator electronics. Until I can figure out how to control this I am disconnecting the feed from the 1202 to the LiFePO4 batteries, else it could overcharge the set (especially if setting off from a shore power mooring where batteries have been filled overnight). The Alernator is Bosch exactly like this AlternatorĪrticle number: 0 124 555 005 (on a new FPV/Iveco 6 cyl Marine engine). I dont know what algorithm the 1202 uses to direct power, but understand its one or the other batteries. As such it needs to be controlled by the SBMS0. I've discovered that our Alternator is connected to a SurePower 1202 Battery 'Isolator', that directs current to either the Engine Batteries or to the 'House' batteries (now a 8Sx3P Lishen 272AH set).